CHRISTIE’S TO OFFER RARE AGA KHAN EMERALD BROOCH 55 YEARS AFTER ITS DEBUT AT AUCTION

Commissioned by Prince Aga Khan

The brooch was commissioned by Prince Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960 and shortly after gifted to his wife, Nina Dyer. A few years after the 1969 auction, the brooch passed through the hands of both Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston, who each sold the pendant/brooch which will be offered for sale this November with an estimate of CHF5,200,000-6,800,000 | US$6,000,000-8,000,000.

Exceptional Design and Craftsmanship

Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the brooch is adorned with a 37.00 carat emerald and accentuated by a row of diamonds, epitomizing the elegance and sophistication of its era. Like many of the beautiful jewels commissioned by The Aga Khan for Nina Dyer, she wore this exceptional piece at numerous prominent events.

Commentary from Christie’s Head of Jewellery Europe

“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewellery; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” comments Max Fawcett, Christie’s Head of Jewellery Europe. “We are thrilled to present it once again, not only because of its history but also due to the increased interest in coloured stones the market has witnessed in recent years. This 37 carats untreated Colombian emerald shows no indications of clarity modification and is accompanied by an SSEF report stating the exceptional quality and rarity of the stone. We believe it will attract a high level of interest from clients globally.”

A Passion for Exquisite Jewellery

Nina Dyer had a remarkable jewellery collection that epitomized the opulence and artistic craftsmanship of her time. Her pieces often included rare gemstones, particularly emeralds. In 1969, the brooch captured the attention of collectors, jewellery enthusiasts and François Curiel, today Chairman Christie’s EMEA, when, accompanied by his father, he visited the sale preview in Geneva, just a month before starting his internship at Christie’s in London.

François Curiel’s Reflections

François Curiel remembers, “Seeing the Nina Dyer emerald for the first time as a young man ignited a passion for perfection within me that has guided my 50 plus year career with Christie’s. The exquisite craftsmanship by two of the most famous jewellery houses, Cartier and Harry Winston, combined with the beauty of an impressive natural stone, shows the enduring inspiration such objects have.

Historical Auction Success

At the Hotel Richemond in 1969, 40 lots were offered, most of which belonged to Nina Dyer. The sale was a huge success, with the jewels selling for more than twice the estimates and the entire collection achieved over CHF 12.7 million. Dyer’s will stipulated that the proceeds from the sale of her jewels would benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe. This auction also marked the beginning of Christie’s long-standing tradition in Geneva, where auctions continue to thrive today, drawing collectors from around the globe.

3 Notable emeralds sold at Christie’s Geneva between 1969 and 2023:

The Patino Necklace by Cartier, 1937

Total Weight: 108.74 Carats, Colombia
Price: $9,934,388 on 12 Nov 2013, Christie’s Geneva

Emerald and Diamond Brooch by Bulgari

Approximately 23.46 Carats, Colombia, Elizabeth Taylor Collection
Price: $6,578,500 on 13 Dec 2011, Christie’s New York

The Rockefeller Emerald

Emerald and Diamond Ring by Raymond Yard
18.04 Carats, Colombia, No Indications of Clarity Modification
Price: $5,511,500 on 20 June 2017, Christie’s New York