THE INTRICATE ART OF DIAMOND CUTTING BY DE BEERS FOREVERMARK: UNVEILING THE SCIENCE AND CRAFT BEHIND DAZZLING GEMS

12th September 2023

Delve into the World of Diamonds with De Beers Forevermark: A Comprehensive Guide to the 4C’s, Diamond Shapes, and the Mesmerizing Play of Light. From understanding the critical role of Cut in shaping a diamond’s brilliance to exploring the myriad of diamond shapes available, this guide is your key to making informed choices when acquiring these rare treasures. Discover the science of optics and how it influences a diamond’s sparkle, as well as the resurgence of classic cuts like the rose cut and Old European cut. If you’re a Gen Z or late Millennial buyer, this is your essential roadmap to owning a timeless symbol of elegance and luxury.

Shine Bright Like a Diamond! Stay A Cut Above the Shape of Things

What did the shiny diamond say to the old rock wooing her?  ‘Leave me alone! I have been under a lot of pressure lately!’ Light takes aside, most of us crave diamonds for their rarity and brilliance. Could we be as interested in the BTS (behind the scenes) of diamond production? The science, and craft, is fascinating.

We tend to time our first purchase with our early big moments. That first pendant to go with our second month on the job. Or that engagement ring that our significant other sealed the deal with. We may well be very new to jewellery acquisition at this stage in our lives. Hence in order to turn a thing of beauty to a joy forever, a little know how is key.

A diamond’s quality and value are assessed by the 4C’s, first amongst which is Cut. There is a fifth parameter, an S, which refers to the shape of the diamond. These properties are often confused. However, cut precedes shape. In effect, the choice of cut creates the rock’s ultimate shape. Among recent brides, look at Kiara Advani’s engagement ring, for example. Her huge oval-shaped solitaire was adorned on a band made with round brilliant cut diamonds in pave-setting.

Cut leads to symmetry and is a function of how well the diamond has been analysed for possible facets, angularities and then polished. These impact how much light the diamond emits and therefore the degree to which it sparkles. These different types of light reflection are referred to as brilliance, fire (flashes of colour) and scintillation (how light reflects with movement). At De Beers Forevermark we grade the cut on a 4-point scale covering Fair, Good, Very Good and Excellent. Customers will appreciate that the diamonds are only cut grade of Very Good or Excellent.

As far as shapes go, diamonds span a spectrum of geometry and art. Round, Square, Rectangular, Oval, Princess, Emerald, Cushion, Heart, Radiant, Marquise, Asscher, Pear, Trapeze and Baguette are some of the distinctive shapes available. From the classic round shaped, to vintage style cushions with rounded corners, to the more contemporary princess style, modern brides are spoilt for choice with engagement rings from the romantic to the sophisticated.

Diamond cuts are a complex subject for non-professionals. The master diamond cutter needs to engage a high level of skills, mathematical calculations, craftsmanship and decision making in order to hew a sparkler out of the initial rough stone. So, if you prefer starting with the style you wish to sport, that is deciding on the shape that speaks to you first, do pay attention to the cut of your gem. Because that will determine the intensity and flamboyance of your dazzle.

Science of optics tells us that the more faces or facets to the diamond’s outline and shape, the more opportunity for light to bounce off them and reflect, refract or simply disperse. This creates a dance of light playing up the beauty of a diamond.

We see this in the popular round brilliant, whose 58 facets are designed to maximise brightness and fire. The brilliant cut is also particularly popular with pear, marquise, oval, and cushions. However, not everybody prefers this white-hot flash and some iconic engagement rings, including Grace Kelly’s and Elizabeth Taylor’s, have been step-cut emerald shapes. The step cut is known for strong clean lines and art deco feel, in effect creating the illusion of a ‘hall of mirrors’.

While cutting techniques and technologies evolve, several archival cuts are being revisited – for example, the rose cut or the hand cut ‘Old European’ which lend a soft glow to Cushion shapes. Remember, a weak choice of cut can result in a disbalanced, asymmetrical outline, something that commonly affects poorly cut pear shapes, for example. In a badly cut diamond, the light goes in the top, leaks out through the sides and ends up looking dull.

Our research shows that more than half (56%) of diamond purchase in the country is contributed by Gen Zs and late Millennials (age group of 18-35 years). If you are one of our young buyers, wondering how to proceed, dive into the cut behind the shape you desire and get ready to own one of the world’s rarest treasures.