Style Trends, Economic Scenarios, and CSR on the Second Day of Vicenzaoro
The second day of Vicenzaoro, organized by IEG Group, highlighted men’s jewellery as a symbol of self-expression, merging tradition with modern technology. Discussions covered Italian jewellery’s resilience in the US market, strategies for generational transitions, and corporate social responsibility. CIBJO seminars emphasized ESG compliance, sustainability, and supply chain traceability, featuring insights from global experts
Men’s Jewellery: From Symbol of Power to Self-Expression at the Trendvision Event
Jewellery is back to adorn men. And it does so with a bold choice that ideally links the power ornaments of the Renaissance to contemporary choices of freedom of style. On the second day of Vicenzaoro, Italian Exhibition Group’s international show, ongoing at Vicenza Expo Centre until Tuesday 21st, Trendvision, IEG’s independent observatory, staged a show to inform the key figures of the international jewellery market how pendants, necklaces, ferrules, clasps, and buttons are an integral part of men’s style and identity.
In the paintings of masters such as van Dyke or Rembrandt, opulence and social status were expressed in fabrics, cut, and jewellery. And before that in history, it was through a spiritual connection with nature and its elements, as the actor and storyteller Fabrizio Raggi recalled.
“It was only in the 20th century that a minimalist interlude eclipsed jewellery from menswear. But today, the themes of civil rights and self-expression have brought jewellery back into the limelight in men’s clothing. It is an enhancement of diversity and inclusiveness,” says Paola De Luca, creative director of Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting.
Trendvision’s journey through images started with the anthropology of ornament in the cultured commentary of jewellery historian Amanda Triossi on portraits of Renaissance gentlemen and then moved into the contemporary world with the voices of Chinese designer Richard Wu and Livia Lazzari, founder of the brand Voodoo Jewels.
Therefore, rather than something new, men’s jewellery is a comeback story, now fuelled by new sensibilities and new technologies. “Art and engineering are now merging and new techniques, such as additive manufacturing, remove creative limits as we have known them so far. The next step is 3D printing with more materials,” said Damiano Zito, president and CEO of Progold, one of the Italian companies with the highest rate of innovation in the gold sector.
US Market: Made in Italy Resilience, Club degli Orafi Italy and Intesa Sanpaolo Analysis
The USA will continue to be one of the most important markets for Made in Italy jewellery in the future. This was affirmed by Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry and Local Economies Research at Intesa Sanpaolo’s Research Department, at the event organised by Club degli Orafi Italy and Intesa Sanpaolo’s Research Department, on the second day of Vicenzaoro January, currently underway at IEG’s Expo Centre, and dedicated to the opportunities and challenges for Italian jewellery companies on the US market.
A useful analysis for tracing the sector’s future prospects, influenced by the decisions of the new US administration on tariffs, in a market where Italy is the United States’ second largest trading partner after India, with a 14% share of American gold jewellery imports in 2023.
The first nine months of 2024, marked by the US election campaign, saw an 8.1% drop in gold jewellery exports due to competition from India and France. In 2025, with global growth expected at 3%, economic developments are expected to be differentiated between the various areas of the world.
However, according to a survey by Club degli Orafi Italy and Intesa Sanpaolo, the Italian sector shows resilience with 38% of companies willing to explore new markets and review pricing policies to maintain competitiveness in the USA.
Moderated by Laura Biason, General Manager of Club degli Orafi Italy, the event hosted Filippo Fusaro, Director of ITA Houston, in video link from Texas, which was followed by a presentation of the macroeconomic scenario and precious metal prices by Daniela Corsini, senior economist in charge of commodity research at Intesa Sanpaolo’s Research Department. Licia Mattioli, CEO of Mattioli SpA, concluded the event with a presentation of the point of view of a company heavily involved in the US market.
The Jewellery Industry: Manoeuvres Towards Generational Transition
Entering into management, step by step, either with involvement in management or by shadowing founding families’ young generations. A highly topical issue and the lintel on which the future of the Made in Italy gold and jewellery sector is projected.
On the opening day of Vicenzaoro January 2025, Club degli Orafi Italy and Intesa Sanpaolo, on the twentieth anniversary of their collaboration in monitoring the economic performance of the industry, brought the results of a research that also touches on this issue.
So, pass the baton, yes. But how? 77% of the companies interviewed chose the most widespread practice of progressive involvement in management, while 58% opted for the direct accompaniment of young family members. Maria Cristina Squarcialupi, president of Club degli Orafi Italy and UnoAerre Industries, and Vice-President of Federorafi, discussed the issue with Alessandra Tognazzo, Professor of Family Business at Padua University, and Andrea Buccellati, Honorary President and Creative Director of Buccellati Holding Italia SpA, who illustrated a successful case of generational shadowing management.
CSR Takes Center Stage at CIBJO Seminars
The seminars organized by CIBJO – the World Jewellery Confederation in collaboration with IEG, also kicked off today at Vicenzaoro, bringing a rich program of discussions on corporate social responsibility (CSR) and sustainability, part of a comprehensive CSR and sustainability educational initiative recognized by the United Nations’ Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC).
The program featured discussions on European ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) regulations, led by Wesley Hunt, Director of Programme Management at De Beers Consumer & Brands, Jon Key, Founder & Managing Director of Key and Co. Ltd., and Helen Mitchell, ESG and Social Responsibility Consultant at CIBJO.
The sessions also include the presentation of a CIBJO guidance document designed to help SMEs comply with regulations through 14 measurable parameters applicable to the jewellery industry, covering environmental policy, socially responsible practices, and governance.
The program continued with insights into De Beers’ new paradigm for the diamond market, presented by Mahiar Borhanjoo, Chief Commercial Officer of the group.
The debate then addressed the topic of traceability technology, exploring innovative solutions to ensure transparency and authenticity in the jewellery supply chain, featuring contributions from Feriel Zerouki, Senior Vice President of Provenance, Ethics & Industry Relations at De Beers Group, Wesley Tucker, CEO of Tracr, Andrew Rimmer, CEO of Opsydia, Jennifer Moriconi, Chief Sales Officer of iTraceiT, and Tai Wong, Innovation and Product Development at Platinum Guild International (PGI).
The critical role of nature in business resilience was also highlighted, focusing on the importance of integrating biodiversity into corporate strategies.
This session included contributions from Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director of the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, Alice Vanni, Compliance and Sustainability Officer at Italpreziosi SpA, Buga Berkovic, Senior Head of the Watch and Jewellery Sector at The Biodiversity Consultancy, and Johanna Levy, Vice President of ESG at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
All sessions are being streamed live on The Jewellery Golden Cloud (accessible via the website www.vicenzaoro.com), offering participants the opportunity to engage directly with industry experts.
Program Information
The full program is available at www.vicenzaoro.com
